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Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Everyone needs a good suit, and if you follow these rules, you'll be able to find your own

Hey guys, LRG magazine has a few tips for the fashion those fashionable that wants too wear a suit but don't know how to buy a great suit.

Avoid bargains. Know your likes, your dislikes, and what you need it for (work, funerals, court). Squeeze the fabric — if it bounces back with little or no sign of wrinkling, that means it's good, sturdy material. And tug the buttons gently. If they feel loose or wobbly, that means they're probably coming off sooner rather than later. The jacket's shoulder pads are supposed to square with your shoulders; if they droop off or leave dents in the cloth, the jacket's too big. The jacket sleeves should never meet the wrist any lower than the base of the thumb — if they do, ask to go down a size. Always get fitted.

What to Look for in Suit Cloth:

Reginald Phillips, Chief and Editor recommended

Fabric: Suits are made of wool. Mostly. At the upper end, you see wool blended with cashmere. You might even see 100 percent cashmere. For hot weather, linen and cotton and silk are available, but most suits are still made of wool. Stick with that.

Fineness: It's usually reflected in the so-called "super number." You know, "super 150's" and the like. Two things: First, the super number denotes the fineness of the individual fibers. The higher the number, the thinner the fabric and the smoother and silkier the cloth. Second, wool gets rarer the finer it is, so very high supers — 180's and above — are expensive. But that doesn't make them better, necessarily. They can be wrinkle-prone, and they show signs of wear — such as shininess — early.

Strength: Take a bunch of the cloth and squeeze it. Does it bounce back to life quickly, with little to no visible wrinkling? Does it feel like there's something to it, some structure — what tailors call "guts"? That's a good sign. It's nearly ineffable, but play around with cloth long enough and you'll come to know it.

Variety: What you will see on most store racks is plain weave or worsted (the smooth, tightly woven stuff) — basic business cloth. But there's more to cloth than worsted. The most common alternatives are flannel (spongy, fuzzy stuff) and tweed. Flannel is a classic cool-weather cloth. And we all know what tweed is.


The Details You're Looking For:

Flower Loop:

Stitched by hand under the lapel to hold the base of the flower that few men ever wear anymore, it's the kind of detail that shows the tailor cares about tradition. And tradition, in matters of tailoring, is a good thing.

Hand-Stitched Sleeve Lining:

A sure sign the shoulder will fit closely and comfortably. Check the inside seam where the arm meets the body: If it's been sewn by hand, you'll see barely perceptible creases or pleats where the two cloths come together

Hand-Finished Interior Pocket:

Check the internal left breast pocket: If it's set off by strips of the external fabric, that means it's been reinforced, so it's better able to stow your wares without sagging

Hidden Pocket:

It's a credit-card-sized compartment that conceals valuable possessions right next to your family jewels. Beyond useful, believe us, especially if you're walking the shadier streets of suit maker Isaia's hometown of Naples

Vented Pleats:

This subtle fold falls just below the internal waistband and ensures a good fit. It also helps prevent tucked-in shirts from bagging or slipping out.

Shoulder pads end with your shoulders.

Your flat hand should slip easily into your suit under the lapels when the top (or middle) button is fastened. If you put a fist in, the suit should pull at the button. The top button of a two-button suit — or the middle button of a three-button suit — should not fall below your navel. With your arms at your sides, your knuckles should be even with the bottom of your jacket. Jacket sleeves should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist. Between a quarter and a half inch of shirt cuff should be visible. One inch of break.


We guy's should like to look good as do women do with what they wear, so why couldn't us guys be fashion continuous on how we look in suits or everyday wear. For myself I am very self continuous on how I look in public. I know this might sound wild to a lot of guys, but women pay attention to what a man wears and how good he looks to her and first glance. You know the old saying, first impression is everything. I really would like to get some kind of feedback on this discussion. How would you like a man to look in your first encounter with him, either when you first meet and or either also if you are going out on a date?

Guys, one of the great looks that I really like is, a nice sport jacket, nice pair of jeans with a button up shirt and a nice pair of dress boots. What do you think, and how would you dress... on a night out with that new woman or do you not care about the way you look...that also mean, are you clean shaving or do you have your beard nicely trimmed?

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